Q: Isn't there an Easier Way? Can't I just use pre-mixed ash additives to neutralize hair color instead of mix colors or primary colors? A: Yes, you can use Ugly Duckling Additives and Blue Based Ash Colors. So rather than one inch to one tube of regular color, try 3/4 inch of one tube.Īdd in the same amount of developer as you have of color: 1:1 mix is the normal mix for Ugly Duckling color. The blonder the level you are working at, the less of the additive you should add - otherwise you may end up with blue or purple hair. The normal mix ratio here would be 1 inch of green/blue/violet added to 1 tube of regular color. The technique here is to add in a very small quantity of the opposite color only. Otherwise you could end up with green hair, blue hair or violet hair. See chart below for the correct neutralizing tone you need to use.īut (and this is an important "but") you need to get the quantity you use of these mix colors right. So use green, blue and violet as mix colors.
Q: How exactly should I use green to cancel out red, blue to cancel out orange, and violet to cancel out yellow? A: In each case you need to use the opposite color on the color wheel to counteract the unwanted red, orange and yellow. Violet cancels out yellow on hair that has been lifted to blonde. Green cancels out red on hair that has been lifted to brown or light brown.īlue cancels out orange on hair that has been lifted to dark blonde. You lifted a customer’s hair from dark brown to brown but there is still red left in the hair. You lifted a customer’s hair from dark brown to blonde but there is still orange left in the hair. You lifted a customer’s hair with bleach but there is still yellow left in the hair. And finally to palest yellow.īleaching Levels Q: How can the Hair Color Wheel Help me in the Salon To Choose a Color or Toner? A: The following color neutralization issues are very very common in a salon: Hair goes from red to orange to orange-yellow, to yellow-orange, to yellow as you bleach. They should be! These are the colors (or rather, unwanted reflects) you get when you bleach hair. Q: How Can the Color Wheel Help me as a Colorist?Īs a hair colorist you will be very familiar with some of these colors - in particular, the colors on the right side of the spectrum: red, red-orange, orange, orange-yellow, yellow-orange, yellow, pale yellow. Purple will neutralize yellow.īlue is the opposite of yellow/orange. In Hairdressers' parlance, certain colors neutralize other colors.Īs you can see, purple is the opposite of yellow. You probably remember this from Grade 1 Primary School. _ Q: What is the Color Wheel? How Can I Even Understand it? A: The Color Wheel is just an arrangement of the natural colors out there which show which colors cancel out which.Įach color has a relationship with every other color.The Hair Color Wheel is a way of showing this relationship.Ĭolors which are on opposite ends from each other will tend to cancel each other out. These will help you achieve great blonde hair color results - no matter how brassy your client's hair! Ugly Duckling sells various blonding kits which contain bleach, developer, toners & post-color hair care in one set.At this stage, and at this stage only, use the appropriate neutralizing colors to fine tune the final color result.Bleaching the hair to lift it properly is therefore the most important preparatory step for fighting red, orange, yellow & brassy hair. Do this & almost all your color wheel problems will vanish like magic!.In general, it is a good idea to remember that color wheel problems occur because the hair has not been lifted enough.For significant level-up, in other words for hair which needs to go much blonder, you need to lift with good quality bleach before attempting to color correct with neutralizing products.For level-up color correction (taking or keeping hair blonde), your go-to products should be Ugly Duckling's intense and no-lift pearl & silver blonde toners.For level-on-level correction, your go-to products should be Ugly Duckling's blue based ash blonde colors. (used on their own).
For tone down color correction, your go-to products should be Ugly Duckling's ash-grey additive & ash-blue additive (mixed with appropriate ash blonde colors).If you are not an experienced Color Technician, it is easier to use Ugly Duckling's pre-mixed products as given below.Otherwise you could get incorrect color results (for example, getting green hair after using a blue toner!) But when adding these colors, you need to get the quantities right.Green cancels out red, blue cancels out orange and violet cancels out yellow.The color wheel shows which colors cancel out which.
BULLET-POINT SUMMARY: COLOR WHEEL SECRETS FOR HAIR STYLISTS
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